'Like, where is Leyton? It's sooo far'
Two West End restaurateurs speak their mind. Plus: world-class chefs descend on E10 & E11, roadtesting pho at Vela Vietnamese, Leytonstone newcomer Defne, 10 more food bargains and Same 5 Questions
Listening to the popular Table Manners podcast this week, I was surprised that Leyton came in for yet another bashing: since being (controversially) awarded Time Out Coolest Neighbourhood status in London, it’s obviously considered fair game.
The slight came about when the two hosts, musician Jessie Ware and her mum Lennie, were interviewing (Bloomsbury stalwart) Honey & Co’s owners Sarit Packer and Itamar Sulovich about their favourite London haunts. Suddenly Itamar blurted out:
“I mean, like, all the hot new places that are opening in Leyton and all those places, no disrespect, but it's easier for me to have lunch in Paris than it is to have lunch in Leyton. Like, where is Leyton? It's sooo far. You're just like, on the train and like, how am I still in London?”
Okaay. And yet, here’s the thing: Sarit and Itamar, if you were to venture over here this weekend - tip, the Elizabeth Line speeds things right up - you’d be able to sample two of this year’s strongest kitchen residencies at Loop, in Leyton, and Arch Deli, in Leytonstone, respectively. Not only are these tiny indie businesses wildly popular, they punch pretty damn hard for their size.
Some evidence? Acclaimed Belfast-born chef Diarmuid Goodwin is this weekend’s pop-up at tucked-away Loop off Francis Road. He’s worked his way through London’s most esteemed dining rooms, doing seven years under the legendary Angela Hartnett, as well as Highbury institution Trullo, and most recently head chef at (now sadly closed) Bethnal Green’s Sager & Wilde.
I was invited down last night and, from the succinct list of small plates, essential must-tries are raw bluefin tuna with green tomato aguachile (like a ceviche marinade, pictured above) laced with lardo, and glazed beetroot with hazelnut creme, citrus and radicchio. Of the mains, a skewer of tender grilled chicken and scallop came with a crunchy winter slaw and rich, chilli-fuelled salsa macha - but the meal highlight was a golden-crusted skate wing with creamy grilled leek colcannon (a nice nod to Goodwin’s Northern Irish roots) in an utterly delicious pool of umami-packed smoked eel and peppercorn sauce. The restaurant was deservedly packed out - this is surely one to catch before it ends tomorrow night. @loop.dining
Half a mile away, there’s something about Arch Deli’s communal table that makes it Leytonstone’s cosiest railway arch spot when the weather turns. Better still, the chances are you’ll actually chat to another local before you leave. Their consistently high quality roster of pop-ups continues with Partisan London (a one-off this Sunday, 12-6pm), which also happens to coincide with owner Michaela’s birthday. With Clerkenwell restaurant Brutto’s sous chef Alan Williams at the helm (much-missed restaurateur Russell Norman’s last opening), Partisan will serve small plates including salt baked beets and gooey Perl Wen cheese, radishes and seaweed butter, squash with garlic and sage, and crab on toast with charred baby gem. Sounds perfectly autumnal. And heck, Honey & Co, both venues are within walking distance of at least two stations. You’ll be there before you know it. @archdeli_e11
Halloween: nothing whatsoever to be afraid of
Anyway, welcome to this week’s issue. If you’re one of the thousands of people reading the free version of this email, and enjoy what you’re reading, please do consider upgrading now. If you missed the news, here’s a link to why, as a freelance writer, I’ve had to install a paid upgrade to keep this newsletter going (subscriptions start at just 86p a week.)
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And now, Halloween. But you don’t need me to tell you that. I’ve always been a little agnostic about this particular annual shebang, but if you’re in full-on spooky mode, local highlights include the Northcote’s party tomorrow (Oct 26th) from 730pm, along with Leyton Midland cocktail bar Leyton Calling’s night of “tropical terror”, same day, same time. Nearby, Bamboo Mat is serving their Halloween menu until October 31st, with highlights include Pumpkin Tempura, Pumpkin Maki and Beef Heart Skewers.
On the actual day, head over to the Heathcote mid-afternoon for a kids’ bash, or Upper Leytonstone’s Out Of the Woods, open till 9pm for mulled cider and kids’ treats, while the following day (Friday Nov 1st) there’s a night of cocktails and tunes from 8pm till late. Over at the Leyton Star there are Halloween DJs that night too, although I thought the whole point of Halloween is that it’s the evening before All Hallow’s day and so by November 1st it’s surely over, right? Tell that to O’Neill’s, whose Halloween Dance Night is on Nov 2nd.
Onto the rest of this week’s main issue. Over the last five weeks I’ve sniffed out no less than 50 bargain food & drink offers in Leyton and Leytonstone: today it’s Week 5 of my quest, uncovering ten more known and lesser-known musts along Leyton High Road from Leyton Midland right up to Baker’s Arms, where Leyton blurs into Walthamstow. These round-ups are only available to paid subscribers, so you’ll save money if you use the guides even once.
Elsewhere today, I stumble across an interesting story (and tasty scran) at Leytonstone High Road newcomer Defne, anticipate what the V&A East Storehouse means for the area, grill another local with the Same Five Questions, and dish up another round of newsy titbits. But first up, I swing by Leytonstone’s new Vietnamese, Vela, for lunch.
The pho at Vela Vietnamese: worth a trip?
Locals and regular readers will have followed Hong Kong kitchen Aquila’s transformation into the Vietnamese restaurant Vela. On a quiet midweek lunchtime this week I popped by to take a seat in the window: first thoughts are the interior has barely changed, although the space feels airier and less cluttered now, with the kitchen open to the dining room, separated by a counter.