'We want this strip to stay vibrant': the new rotisserie coming to the railway arches
Plus: Win's Bakery x Homies On Donkeys, new April openings Acme Tacos and Cafe Jikoni - and hospitality owners speak out
Back in early February, when I wrote about the closure of Wanstead Tap and the struggle along Winchelsea Road’s railway arches, I had no idea it would emerge as the most-read issue of the year to date.
It seems there’s a genuine passion to keep this thoroughfare alive; it has every reason to be as popular as the Tilbury Road arches at Leyton Midland. (Interesting geeky fact: did you know Winchelsea Road, despite its E7 postcode, is actually part of Waltham Forest, not Newham, like the rest of Forest Gate?)
Today’s news should help power the street back up to full tilt this summer. Below I chat with the three pals — Amil Ourabah, Jake Salter and Andrew Neilson, pictured above — behind Roost, the poultry joint taking over the former family-friendly cafe Can Club.
“In a nutshell, we’re a bar and kitchen with a menu that centres around our 24-hour brined rotisserie chickens,” says co-founder Andrew. “Alongside that, we’ll be serving cocktails, wine and East London craft beers.”
It’s a truly local affair, with Andrew and Amil “Leytonstone born-and-bred,” he says, “while Jake is engaged to one of our friends we grew up with.”
With this in mind, the trio is convinced they can create something that fits with the demographic of the area that they know so well. “We want to ensure this strip stays vibrant and use this opportunity to make our mark, while keeping the energy of the neighbourhood alive.”
The plan is for Roost to be fully operational by summer. Read the full interview in today’s issue, including a comprehensive debrief on the food offering, drinks pairings, stylish interior and plans for the exterior terrace. Follow @roost_e7
In the mind-numbing scroll of social media, one post stood out at the weekend: long-running bakery Wild Goose, with branches in both Leytonstone and Forest Gate, were piqued enough by the behaviour of a customer to post a carousel on Instagram highlighting their actions.
“Not every customer walks in with kindness, but the ones who do are the reason we’re still here,” it began. “This week, we had an extremely rude customer take their frustration out on the team. Not because something big went wrong, but because we weren’t ‘smiley enough.’ But it didn’t stay small. It turned into threats, attitude and a full breakdown of how we ‘don’t know how to run a business.’ Apparently, working in retail once now qualifies you to give business consultancy which includes your advice that someone lose their job for not smiling enough. Who knew?
“Here’s the part people don’t like hearing. If you walk in with disrespect, you don’t get warmth in return. This isn’t a performance. We meet people with warmth, but we’re human, and the energy you bring in is usually the one you meet. Hospitality is heavy right now. Long hours, unsustainable costs, tired people still showing up anyway. Most small businesses are closer to closing than people realize. But we stay. For the kind ones. The ones who treat us like people are the reason places like this exist. Because we rise together.”
The post attracted over 500 likes with many small businesses and other independent bakeries expressing their support. When I dropped co-owner Kirstin a line this week, she added: “Anyone who has worked in hospitality knows that we are an easy target for people to release stress, because we cannot retaliate. But beyond this we really want to focus on the amazing amount of support we get and the huge volume of customers that are so lovely.”
I wondered: what is the experience of other independents in the wider area? In today’s issue I speak to a handful of operators to hear their thoughts on the subject, including Deeney’s founders Carol and Paddy, William The Fourth head honcho Steph, Joyau’s Jack and the Heathcote’s manager James.
Welcome to issue 75. Also today, I get the lowdown on the tasty snack that will draw the biggest queues this weekend — a taco-sized birria pasty collab between Win’s Bakery on Tilbury Road and Homies On Donkeys. The one-off is to mark Win’s first birthday, and is available for two weeks: read all about what both Jack and Smokey have to say about its genesis below.
And celebrating a whole twelve months in the Global Top 100 Food & Drink leaderboard is this humble Substack: I could never have guessed such a feat when I started it just under two years ago, so thanks so much to everyone who has supported my work.
If you’re a free subscriber and enjoy the value you get from this weekly read — and can afford to upgrade — it would be so appreciated. Paid subscribers have access to the entire archive of 75+ issues, with hundreds of frank restaurant reviews, dozens of interviews and food and culture stories at your fingertips that you simply won’t read about anywhere else. After all, no other title writes in depth about the swathe of East London from Stratford and Forest Gate to Leyton, Leytonstone and Walthamstow.
Other ways to support include hitting the heart button (for the all-important Substack algorithms), or sharing with friends for up to six months’ credit.
In this week’s issue for paid subscribers:
Roost: an exclusive chat with Leytonstone-raised co-owner Andrew on the menu, the drinks offer, interior, the team's backstory and why they choose Winchelsea Road to launch their new bar and restaurant.
Jack and Smokey on their unlikely but genius one-off collab between Win’s Bakery and Homies On Donkeys available this weekend only — and why it’s a banger.
Customers and kindness — E10 and E11 hospitality owners offer their thoughts and experiences.
The scoop on two big new foodie arrivals next month: Acme Tacos and Cafe Jikoni.
Plus this week’s food gossip, news, forthcoming pop-ups, one-offs and foodie happenings.