Wanstead Tap closes in Forest Gate: what's next for Winchelsea Road's railway arches?
I speak to Wild Goose Bakery, wine bar Joyau and Wanstead Kitchen. Plus: top tips for KERB Francis Road and The Old Crown's very public backlash
“The Wanstead Tap will always have a special place in my heart: if only because on a hot and steamy night last June, wandering the streets of E11 with my sleeping newborn daughter strapped to my chest, I realised I was desperate for a beer. With no pubs nearby, one light shone out down Huddlestone Road through the darkness. I stumbled in just before closing — the Wanstead Tap not only quenched my thirst, but saved my sanity with an IPA.”
So wrote Tim Sowula, an early contributor to the original Leytonstoner website back in 2015, on the thrill of his unexpected E7 discovery. Fast forward just over a decade and, amidst the cold winds of hospitality in February 2026, the pioneering Tap is no more.
“After twelve years, it’s finally goodbye,” owner Dan Clapton told me this week. “We’ve had an incredible journey over the years: beer, books, music and everything else in between. We’ve made some incredible friends, met performers and artists we could only dream of — and ruffled a few feathers for good measure.”
Dan is, however, keen to emphasise that he isn’t closing “because London is broken, or inferred government policies: it’s simply time to say we came, we did — and now someone else can. We’re all merely guardians of the arches and buildings that make up our incredible East London community. The time is right for new ideas, new blood and new energy.”
With this in mind, he’s “currently in talks with a whole variety of people who we hope will keep the original Tap ethos alive.”
And in the meantime Dan himself — who also manages a successful career in TV — is moving to “pastures new.”
Such a significant E7 closure means it’s time to take stock. The kernel for today’s story was, in fact, an email from subscriber Madeleine, “a concerned new mum”, as she explained. “There’s lots of discussion in Forest Gate regarding increasing rent and taxes across the arches,” she wrote. “Many local businesses are struggling to stay afloat. We need to raise awareness and increase foot traffic. I spend a lot of time drinking coffee at various arch locations — and am not sure what I’d do without them.”
Once I’d asked a few questions of my own, I realised Madeleine was right. In today’s issue, I speak to some hardworking owners along this stretch to find out their thoughts, including wine bar and small plates joint Joyau, acclaimed Bangladeshi restaurant Wanstead Kitchen and the long-running Wild Goose Bakery, who explain why they’re not renewing their lease when it ends.
Another forthcoming departure from the arches is popular kid-friendly cafe-bar Can Club. But their decision to close “isn’t driven by rent or running costs,” clarified owner Laura. “It’s a personal decision based on relocation and family commitments within our team.”
Did Winchelsea Road reach its pinnacle in the mid-late teens? When I moved to the area, I’d often walk over to MasterChef 2014 semi-finalist Michael Sanders’ hit restaurant Arch Rivals (my 2019 review is here), wine bar Burgess & Hall and, of course, the Wanstead Tap.
In retrospect, Tap owner Dan was something of a visionary, one of the first in this part of East London to turn an empty arch, sandwiched between car repair garages, into a cultural hotspot. “I had a mad Tony Wilson vision to ‘build it and they will come’, despite having no experience whatsoever,” he said at the time.
And the flexibility of the space allowed film nights, comedy, book clubs and live music. My first visit was back in 2015 to try the supper club, which ran fortnightly at the time.
Back in 2026, a weekend of farewells is planned, fittingly for Valentine’s Day (13th and 14th February), including a musical extravaganza with 5 Busy Guys on the closing night. “Turn up, have a beer and let’s share those memories,” says Dan. Oh, we will.
Wanstead Tap, 352 Winchelsea Rd, London E7 0AQ @thewansteadtap
Sponsored by @kerbfrancisroad
Welcome to issue #68. And now, a fact: my news story last year on the arrival of streetfood giants KERB was the most read issue of this Substack for many months, such was the level of anticipation locally.
When KERB finally came to Francis Road in July, their lively market elevated a long established and already buzzy pedestrianised strip into a genuine weekend destination, chucking colourful stalls into the mix of much-loved cafes, delis, bars and other independent businesses.
While the weekly bash thrives when the sun shines, the team at KERB have asked me if I could use this platform to help spread the word over these more challenging winter months for the traders. I think it’s fair to say we all want this local asset to survive — and so in an occasional new series, I’ve compiled a handy round-up of personal highlights this weekend.
Firstly, a quick heads-up to the produce traders resident in the borough, which tomorrow include Littlest Paws Club, The French Comte, Wild Grains and Turning Earth. One must-try is Leyton-based Shedletsky’s, which husband-and-wife team James Cooper and Natalie Preston launched in 2019, earning eleven Great Taste Awards, including a national win for Best Hot Sauce. I recommend the red kimchi, bread & butter pickles and Everything Seasoning. They’re all bangers.
This weekend also sees five streetfood traders, including Mandala’s moreish Himalayan dumplings, Chulo’s Nepalese momos and Syrian streetfood dons Utopia. On my recent visit I tried Meltdown, also trading tomorrow: housed in an imposing chrome truck, experienced patty chef Tom serves up no-nonsense cheeseburgers made with regenerative beef (there are veggie/ vegan options too). It’s a heck of a sloppy beast crammed with two juicy patties, two cheese slices, chilli, garlic mayo, a tomato and onion relish — cooked perfectly pink within. Verdict? At £12, including skin-on fries, excellent value.
My last tip? Indonesian streetfood stall Borobudu, pictured above. Sadly, their sought-after coconut laksa — with either chicken and fishcakes, or pak choi and tofu — had already sold out by late afternoon, so instead I ordered the vegetarian nasi goreng (£11). The tofu had been marinated to yield a deeply umami flavour, slapped by an explodingly orange egg yolk and some expertly cooked rice, diced cucumber and tomato for added vits. A note to self for next time: arrive by 1pm to bag that bowl of laksa.
Borobudu and Meltdown will be at KERB Francis Road tomorrow and again on February 28th. The market runs 10am-4pm every Saturday. Follow @kerbfrancisroad, Saturday list of traders and stalls posted every Monday.
Wow, last week’s issue on Leytonstone’s new venue Seven Church Lane reached new heights, with the interest around the story resulting in a climb to #19 in Substack’s Top 100 Global Rising Food & Drink Leaderboard. Thanks to everyone who upgraded their subscriptions or shared the issue.
As, you’ll see below, there’s so much going on round these parts every week — at 4000 words, this issue is the biggest yet. If you’re a free subscriber and enjoy the value you get from this weekly read — and of course can afford to upgrade — it would be hugely appreciated. Thanks so much.
Paid subscribers have access to the entire archive of nearly 70 issues, with hundreds of frank restaurant reviews, dozens of interviews and food and culture stories at your fingertips that you simply won’t read about anywhere else. After all, no other title writes in depth about the swathe of East London from Stratford and Forest Gate to Leyton, Leytonstone and Walthamstow.
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In a nutshell — behind today’s paywall:
The Old Crown: I dive into the backlash on social media around the Leytonstone pub formerly known as The Birds. Plus my verdict after visiting on opening day.
Wild Goose Bakery: owner Kirstin on the next steps for both her Winchelsea Road bakery and Leytonstone cafe — plus what you need to know their supper clubs in Leytonstone.
Joyau: why couple Jack and Immy are thriving on Winchelsea Road, and what to expect this spring.
The underrated deshi breakfast at Wanstead Kitchen reviewed.
An expanded opinion section, plus gossipy titbits and this week’s forthcoming pop-ups, one-offs and foodie happenings.