Tun or tapas? Leyton Midland's latest two arrivals
Plus: Prince Of Wales Leyton to reopen, Tamping Grounds x Stone Mini Market and Appetite East Village reviewed
It’s Tuesday morning and Ed Beardsell is refreshed from Glastonbury. A bit sunburnt, a bit tired, he’s nonetheless raring to go, enthusing how four days in a sweltering tent has fired him up “to serve his community,” as he puts it.
In fact, the man behind the latest opening along Tilbury Road’s rebooted railway arches, neighbourhood cafe-bar Tun, has an unclouded vision: “This is a home-from-home for people to connect over good coffee, and simple, nourishing food.”
Although the name is the “Anglo-Saxon word for settlement,” it also, importantly, hints at Leyton’s history as the “tun or town on the River Lea.” This sense of place is evoked by the colourful watery mural, by local artist Steph Sketchy, he commissioned to brighten up the outside wall — which also features another familiar local sight, a watchful lone fox.
Situated next to hit bar Chop Shop Tavern, Tun is a welcoming, accessible, all-day spot for everyone from mothers with babies to laptop-wielding freelancers. There’s even an assigned play area at the rear that will be welcomed by young families.
“It was all done on a budget,” Ed admits. “There’s absolutely no investment.” The birch plywood seating was created by local carpenter Neil, “also bar manager of the Northcote,” while elsewhere are wooden benches, cute wicker stools and sturdier plastic chairs. Cushions are scattered, pops of pink and peach everywhere.
In today’s issue, Ed gives us a heads-up on exactly what we can expect, from where he sources his coffee, sweet treats and lunch items to the local craft drinks he’ll be serving: another meaning of ‘tun,’ he adds, is “a gigantic barrel of beer or wine.”
And there’s the small matter of the launch party, which takes place tomorrow, from 2pm until late (the cafe is open from 9am), with the beer taps flowing and DJs playing funk, soul and disco.
“Tun is my opportunity to give something back,” he says. @tunspacee10
Meanwhile, five minutes’ walk away is Leyton Midland’s new tapas bar. Its former incarnation, Peruvian-Japanese dining room Bamboo Mat, was an instant hit when it opened opposite Leyton Midland station in 2022, picking up rave reviews in both The Guardian and Time Out (written by yours truly). Whilst it was a shock to see it close in June, even more surprising was its reopening so quickly under a new name, Nuevo Sur.
While owner Dimitri has been general manager here since August 2023, it’s now an entirely separate entity from the remaining Stratford branch of Bamboo Mat (still operating under its original chefs). Hence the rebrand, for which he consulted with chef friends in Barcelona to finesse the menu, which leans into classic Spanish and Portuguese tapas, including patatas bravas, octopus and croquetas.
So will it be the Spanish restaurant that’s long been needed rounded these parts? I popped in for lunch this week: scroll down for some initial thoughts. @nuevo_sur_tapas
*NEW* This Weekend’s Top 3
At the end of every newsletter, paying subscribers tuck into a comprehensive round-up of pop-ups, new openings and one-offs. Here are three to whet your appetite.
Visit: Francis Road — KERB market finally launches on Saturday, while the annual Street Party is next day, from 11am, with stalls, raffles and pearly kings and queens galore.
Watch: Kiki & Herb — the legendary NYC cabaret duo play three nights at Soho Theatre Walthamstow for the first time since 2007 (until Saturday 5th). Their versions of Pulp, Joy Division and MGMT classics are especially masterful.
Eat: Magic Momos at The Arch — the popular E11 bar off Grove Green Road announced its forthcoming closure this week so let’s all try to support this Sunday’s pop-up.
Welcome to issue #40. Don’t forget, full details in last week’s bonus edition on Francis Road’s KERB Saturday market, free for all subscribers, which from tomorrow now runs every Saturday, with 20 stalls, from 10am–4pm. There’s live music from Tajabones outside Dreamhouse Records at midday.
Once again, thanks to everyone who has helped maintain my 100% reader-funded newsletter in Substack’s Global Top 100 Food & Drink charts for the last couple of months.
If you’ve yet to upgrade, for just £5 a month (or £49 a year, just 94p a week) you can bask in local food and culture stories, frank restaurant reviews and the latest foodie gossip. Other ways to support include hitting the heart button (for the all-important Substack algorithms), or sharing with friends for up to six months’ credit.
And don’t forget you can listen to this newsletter like a podcast each week by pressing the play icon on the app.
Behind this week’s paywall:
Prince Of Wales Leyton: new manager Nick on the surprising new menu concept
Tun: owner Ed talks us through its food and drink offer and his future plans for the venue
Leyton Midland’s Nuevo Sur roadtested — plus the best dish to order
Tamping Grounds takeover of Stone Mini Market — co-owner Zak tells us how they did it
Appetite London: the East Village meat dons reviewed — and the must-try burger
Prince Of Wales: the reopening — and new menu concept
