The area’s best new pizza? An intimate tour of Leyton’s rebooted boozer
Plus: Short Road Pizza interviewed, Leyton Craft Collective reviewed, Gjana Bakery opens, Devil's Botany and Leytonstone Tavern's small plates
Two factors strike you on the threshold of Leyton High Road’s revived William The Fourth: firstly, the distinctive exterior signage, by Irish artist Loughlin Brady Smith (more of which below). Secondly, the interior: it now appears so much bigger.
“Previously the bar was a double horseshoe,” explains new co-owner Steph Solley, who’s giving me a tour a few days before opening. “It was gorgeous, but took over the entire pub. So, we’ve straightened it out, and while the bar top is new — it had been badly damaged, with multiple layers of wood and Formica — everything else, including the gantry, is original.”
Passionate about the building’s rich history, Steph’s aim goes further than honouring its legacy. “This isn’t just about reopening a pub,” she says, “it’s breathing new life into a cherished part of our community.”
When the news broke, just five weeks ago, that the scruffily beloved 1897 landmark had changed hands, it was a relief that East London brewery Exale — owned by Steph and her partner Andy — were taking it over, their third venture after their Blackhorse Road taproom and Bethnal Green’s Three Colts.
It’s a good fit for this Victorian gin palace, whose more recent history features a lesser-known microbrewery. Rewind to 2000 and it was run by Brodie’s, who brewed on site out the back, their craft ales notoriously strong. “They used to hold an annual festival that served 22% beers,” says Steph, with a laugh.
Brewing stopped in 2016 and the Willy reopened in 2018 under Rose Pubs, owners of Chequers in Walthamstow and Homerton’s Adam & Eve. And as for its latest owners? They’ve lived near Hollow Pond for 11 years, and are both die-hard hospitality experts, having worked in boozers in London and “all around the world,” Steph says.
Traditional pub fans can rest assured that, despite its spacious feel, the main room is no edgy reinvention. The key colour palette throughout burgundy and racing green, the central Victorian mantelpiece, with its tiled fireplace, has been scrubbed and piled up with old books and nick-nacks “from the Brodie days,” she says. Comfy Chesterfield armchairs hold court either side, while rugs line the floor, and mismatched chairs surround a mix of low and high tables. “We’ve kept the original wooden boards, but they were damaged, so we've sanded and re-stained them,” she adds.
The walls are adorned with eclectic oil paintings and sketches “sourced from local flea markets,” a bull’s head offering a further nod to the pub’s antiquity. As for the Blackletter — or Gothic — style of lettering used for the pub’s signage?
“It was inspired by traditional medieval handwriting styles often seen on pubs,” says sign-writer Loughlin Brady Smith, busy adding the finishing touches outside. “Its calligraphic nature, with distinctive angular strokes, evokes a sense of heritage and history — but I softened the edges to give it a warmer feel.” Don’t miss the swaying caricature pub sign depicting a “mascot character” of William The Fourth (who, history fans, reigned from 1830-37).
Back inside, another difference is that the pub’s sports element is now focused in the atrium ceilinged rear room, still home to the open kitchen. Huge flatscreens aside, fans will enjoy the framed vintage football shirts, while the darts board stands in pride of place. Joining this room are shiny spruced-up toilets.
Outside, the courtyard is plant-lined, with pavement benches for those that prefer the bustle of Leyton High Road. At the rear, the former microbrewery is a stylish events space, its walls lined with vinyl and a turntable for DJ nights, pop-ups, and community gatherings.
As for food? With the pub’s open kitchen run by Leytonstone’s very own Short Road Pizza, in today’s issue I hear founder Ugo’s story, what’s on the menu (clue: not just pizza), and try a couple of essential dishes. I also unpack the pub’s varied and well-priced drinks menu, together with a round-up of weekly offers.
Welcome to issue #37. So, tomorrow, Leyton Calling is one. Owner Danny posted this week that they’ve served a mighty 24,000 drinks since opening. (And let’s not forget the abandoned bar names — Samoan Joe’s and The Parakeet — before the current one).
To celebrate the first birthday, there’ll be free champers on arrival (Moet dahhhling), performers, DJs, birthday cake and of course cocktails flowing. If you pre-book a table, you’ll have the chance to win your whole bill with a roll of the dice: a 1 gets a round of shots; roll a 10 and the bill for free. @leytoncalling
Once again, thanks to everyone who has helped maintain my reader-funded newsletter in Substack’s Global Top 100 Food & Drink charts for the last couple of months (it’s currently at #95).
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Behind this week’s paywall:
The lowdown on food and drink at William The Fourth, including the best pizza you seriously might otherwise overlook (fully roadtested by yours truly) and an interview with Short Road Pizza founder Ugo
Gjana Bakery, Leyton Midland - what you need to know. And how a first visit fared
Leytonstone Tavern’s small plates and Monday offers reviewed
Why the torrential rain didn’t deter us from the Leyton Craft Collective — plus highlights at Neckstamper, East London Brewing and the surprising must-try cocktail creation at Devil’s Botany
This week’s key pop-ups, one-offs and foodie goss
William The Fourth: what are we eating — and drinking?
Now, the all-important questions. What are the best Exale beers on draft? The must-have Short Road pizza to order? How much is the wine? And what’s this about local discounts?