Singburi E1: what we ate, the vibe - and tips to secure a spot
Plus: Leytonstone newcomer's value lunch, Francis Road's Scottalia interviewed - and Le Regret's must-try heatwave tipple
Is how much you enjoy a restaurant all about expectation — or indeed a lack of it? The reason so many small, low-key restaurants in this part of East London often delight is a feeling of discovery, stumbling across somewhere new or previously overlooked. In last week’s issue, it was underrated Portuguese cafe Bela’s Food Mart in Forest Gate; in today’s newsletter, scroll down for Leytonstone’s new Pakistani dining room, Baithak 804, whose hearty lunch offer costs a bargain £6.50.
Dinner at Leytonstone’s most famous (former) restaurant, Singburi, was of course, heaped with anticipation: even securing a table in the first place was something of a coup. Its new Shoreditch iteration launched their booking system just two weeks ago, before officially opening last Friday. With just 60 covers, availability is already scarce: when I hit Open Table, the first six weeks had been taken, with no free reservations showing until late July.
And yet, returning to the app a few hours later on a whim, a couple of spots had in fact become free — with the result that I managed to book a lunchtime slot this week (a glance now reveals there’s now nothing until the end of July, but it’s worth checking the app regularly for cancellations). And to be fair, at least the booking process is now more straightforward — even if there’s an expected wait.
When I visited this week, I asked GM Alexander Gkikas about how the new system works. He explained that at the moment, as well as certain teething issues, they are simply trying to stagger bookings so the kitchen isn’t overwhelmed; entirely understandable for a new opening.
But the good news is that the counter — with 19 seats — is being saved mostly for walk-ins, although you can also request a spot there upon arrival if you have booked (as we did). Thus your best bet initially may to be to chance it if you’re out in Shoreditch, especially early or midweek.
For more recent subscribers, let’s rewind briefly to February this year and the news that Singburi was upping sticks from Leytonstone, a big story round these parts. Head chef Sirichai Kularbwong’s new chapter came about simply because his parents were retiring (Singburi is named after the town where his father was raised), while this Shoreditch collab is courtesy of his new business partners, chef Nick Molyviatis (Kiln and Oma), and GM Alexander Gkikas (Catalyst Roastery).
Back to that heady sense of expectation that accompanies a booking at Singburi: I admit excitement was riding fairly high when I stepped off the Elizabeth Line at Liverpool Street. As we arrived in the new Montacute Yards development, we spotted the old yellow Thai Food sign and, once inside, the iconic Singburi Tasty Thailand Food signage in pride of place. Visible at the entrance is the famous chalkboard, a jolt of nostalgic happiness for former E11 regulars.
These signifiers aside, entering the new space is slightly discombobulating, too: with its huge wraparound windows, it’s assuredly industrial and sleek, all chrome and orange, with none of the original’s homey vibe — and not a wooden table in sight. Designed in partnership with Bangkok studio Physicalist, it’s the “same but different” — a useful phrase the trio of owners have used to describe this reinvention of the restaurant as a whole.
The natural focus is the central open kitchen, with its rows of woks lining the shelf above the sink, and custom-built grills: those desirable counter seats anchor the room, where you can settle in for a front-row view. My partner and I sat opposite the kilns, sunlight pouring in, and we watched the flames dance as the young chefs moved in careful choreography from fire to counter, plating with care. All the while Sirichai and Nick were quietly at the helm.
Other “same but different” qualities? Well, the absence of cash, of course — it’s card only — and the small matter of BYOB, with corkage priced at the “cheapest bottle on the list” (currently £33). There are now also cocktails, and 14 wines on rotation. And the menu — no longer a laminated list of red and green curries, and Pad Thai, for example — is shaped by the original restaurant’s pioneering chalkboard specials.
As to the question of expectations met, that’s something I ponder below in today’s issue, as well as unpacking the dishes we ate — including OG classics such as the prawn curry and stir-fried cabbage. Scroll down to read the full story. @singburi_e1
Welcome to issue #39. In case you missed it, this is actually the second newsletter this week. On Tuesday I published a bonus edition on Francis Road’s forthcoming KERB Saturday market: discover who the key traders and the 20 stalls are here: it’s free for all subscribers.
Once again, thanks to everyone who has helped maintain my reader-funded newsletter in Substack’s Global Top 100 Food & Drink charts for the last couple of months (it’s currently at #44 in the Rising Leaderboard).
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Behind this week’s paywall:
Singburi E1: what we ate, what the vibe’s like and some more thoughts
Leytonstone’s best value new lunch at Baithak 804
What you need to know about Francis Road cafe and cocktail bar Scottalia — co-owner Sofia interviewed
What happened to Whyte Rushen at The Birds?
The unique wine to order if it’s your first visit to Leytonstone High Road’s Le Regret
Singburi E1: how our visit panned out — and the dishes to order
