Roasted aubergine danish? Inside Leyton's hit new Middle Eastern bakery
Plus: Bangkok Belly reviewed, the secrets of Farha's viennoiserie - and just who is taking over The Birds?
With its two-year gestation period, Leyton’s Middle Eastern viennoiserie Farha wins the award for the new opening I’ve written most about — before actually tasting the food.
It’s also attracted more queries from readers than any other since I started this Substack. In short, there’s been a real passion for this family-run project to reach fruition.
And now it finally has, any audible sighs of relief have been drowned out by the stampede through the doors. Situated opposite the undulating swathes of Draper’s Field, Farha (the Arabic word for “joy”) stands alone on the stretch of High Road where E10 bleeds into E15, somewhat untroubled by anywhere nearby offering viennoiserie and next-level coffee.
Since its late December launch, admittedly there have been a couple of false starts of my own: firstly, I turned up after midday to a counter already emptied of goods (and yet nonetheless enjoyed the coffee), and a week or so later, arrived to find it closed on a Wednesday.
But third time lucky: last weekend I timed it right to order the tasty trio pictured above. And its instant popularity is partly because the kitchen is headed up by former Morny chef Vanessa Campanelli, who’s since done time at the acclaimed Toklas, Fortitude in Bloomsbury, Cedric Grolet at The Berkeley and the inimitable Ottolenghi.
But first, a fact: the owners undertook the entire reno project while balancing demanding fulltime jobs and, more recently, a newborn baby. Nargis Shaikh is a Hackney primary school teacher by day (currently on maternity leave) and her husband Umar Raza a management consultant, with the pair having moved to Leytonstone a few years ago. “We struggled to find anywhere nice to go locally for some coffee and a nice bite,” she says, “so decided to open a neighbourhood spot for speciality coffee and food from the Middle East.”
If only it were that simple. Due to open in April 2024, the ongoing delays were down to the building being a former garage, with one issue after another related to pipe work and foundations. But, as I said last week in a shorter item for paid subscribers, the wait has been well worth it, not least on an aesthetic front, from the sand-coloured cups and plates handcrafted by a local potter to the furniture built by a Leyton carpenter and upholstery sourced from “a small business in Leyton,” says Nargis.
A special trip to Fez in Morocco even resulted in the couple sourcing the hand-chiselled, glazed terracotta zellige tiles adorning the pastry counter and ochre-and-burgundy toilet (you have to check this out), as well as natural clay bejmat tiles lining the floor.
The location itself is refreshing. Grabbing the last table by the big window, the view over the park is not something I’d previously contemplated, surprisingly bucolic for this most urban of stretches. Meanwhile, the handful of sun-drenched low tables at the front give way to a tranquil rear room with skylight, limewash cured walls, and long benches adorned with stripy covers. This is, perhaps, the place to linger.
And now, some learning: arrive before 1030am at weekends for a shorter wait. Just after 1015am, a handful of customers were queuing on our Saturday morning visit — but fifteen minutes later, the place was roadblock, a sense of anticipation as heady as peak-era Morny, but with thankfully more indoor space to escape the biting cold.
A couple of choices had already sold out, including one on my hitlist: the za’atar cruffin with whipped feta and sumac pickled onion. But my other top three were there on the counter: the uber popular chai orange bun, banana brûlée and roasted aubergine danish, all pictured above. Items for next time? Perhaps a whipped coffee ganache bun with hazelnut praline and dark chocolate glaze, a saffron pear danish or a bostock (a croissant loaf with orange blossom frangipane, blueberries and flaked almonds).
And the coffee menu — conceived by head barista Laura, who came 4th in the UK Barista Championships — is no afterthought. A long black using their South American house espresso blend delivers fruity notes of chocolate, while there are also Panama Geishas (a high-end floral coffee varietal) and special lots from Yemen, as well as pour-overs and the ubiquitous matcha.
Sure, it’s early days, but what’s next? Brunch is “realistically looking like summer now,” says Nargis, with lunch and evening service to follow after that. And there’s also the small matter of the adjoining unit. “We’ve taken the shop next door and it will be something non-food related, but form part of the Farha brand,” she says, enigmatically. Personally, I’d bet that it’s an interiors project — but let’s wait and see.
Hungry? In today’s issue head chef Vanessa reveals the secrets behind her stunning (and extremely complex) viennoisserie, and I rate my favourite of the three I’ve tried so far. If you’re a fan, scroll down for more.
Update: Farha is now open from Jan 15th as they have had to rearrange the kitchen due to such demand. A long black costs £3.40, pastries £5.50-£6.70. 930am–4.30pm, Thursday–Sunday. 42 High Road, Leyton E15 2BP @farha.london
Just who is taking over The Birds?
One social media post certainly caused a few ripples this week. “It brings us great sadness to announce The Birds will be closing its doors for the last time on Wednesday January 14th,” it stated. “The venue will be taken over by a new brewery who will re-open under a different name towards the end of January. We’ll be throwing a party, A Funeral for a Bird, on Saturday 10th. Dress Code: Black tie, sombre.”
Uh-oh. This was a development I didn’t see coming, although I’ve since learnt that it’s been on the market for nearly eighteen months. So, in today’s issue I take a look at the Leytonstone watering hole’s industrious past, its recent incarnations and speak to local brewery and pub owners to get their take on who might be taking the reins of this prime location boozer.
Welcome to issue #64. More big food and drink news locally is that, after a seasonal break, Kerb Market is back on Francis Road tomorrow with what sounds like suitably comforting streetfood for this arctic weather: Mandala’s Himalayan dumplings, Kolkati’s Indian Kati kebabs and Borobudu’s Indonesian rice bowls to name three stalls — plus all the usual meat, cheese and artisan fare.
And now a quick word. I’m thrilled and humbled that my Substack is still in the Top 100 Global Food & Drink leaderboard after nearly a year. But as it’s become my main source of income over the last 18 months, with each 3500-word issue taking most of the working week to research, write and edit, if you’re a free subscriber and value this weekly read — and of course can afford to upgrade — it would be hugely appreciated.
As an incentive I’m offering a January Sale on both monthly and paid subscriptions (offer ends on Monday January 10th):
Paid subscribers have access to the entire archive of way over 60 issues, with hundreds of frank restaurant reviews, dozens of interviews and food and culture stories at your fingertips that you simply won’t read about anywhere else. After all, no other title writes in depth about the vast swathe of East London from Stratford and Forest Gate to Leyton, Leytonstone and Walthamstow.
Other ways to support include hitting the heart button (for the all-important Substack algorithms), or sharing with friends for up to six months’ credit.
Behind the paywall:
Farha chef Vanessa divulges the secrets behind her stunning viennoiserie creations
A review of Leytonstone’s new Thai restaurant Bangkok Belly, located in the former Singburi. There’s even a version of the classic moo krob on the menu.
A potted history of The Birds — and a little speculation amongst local hospitality owners as to who maybe taking it over?
Gossipy titbits and this week’s forthcoming pop-ups, one-offs and foodie happenings.
Moo krob back on the menu? Bangkok Belly reviewed
