'More than just goulash': Hungarian and Romanian spots to seek out
Featuring TrioBite, Tradition By Alex and Lakehouse. Plus: Leytonstone's incoming NOx Smokehouse interviewed
Some restaurants pique your curiosity for years, without ever quite drawing you in. That was certainly the case with Cann Hall Road’s Lakehouse, an unassuming Hungarian dining room which opened back in 2019 near Wanstead Flats (it’s now popular coffee-and-brunch store Tamping Grounds).
I finally visited one Saturday lunchtime nearly three years ago, when a summer storm swept in across Jubilee Lake opposite, and my partner and I fled inside to take shelter in its rustic interior.
Sitting by the window, glass of red in hand, watching the rain pummel the decking, owner Mihaly helped us navigate the laminated book-like menu, which ran over four pages. No experts in Hungarian cuisine, we were soon delighting over tin mugs of chilled cherry soup — which they drank back in Budapest on hot days, he explained — as well as home-made nokedli (mini dumplings), paprika-dusted juicy roast pork, sauerkraut and, of course, a bowl of terracotta-red goulash.
And yet Mihaly rightly insisted that this humble dish was only the start of Hungarian cuisine. “Our aim is to show that it’s more than just goulash,” he said, with a smile.
So, what happened to the original Leytonstone location? Well, within a couple of months of our visit, Lakehouse — run by Budapest-born Mihaly along with sister Bernadett and head chef chef Zsuzsi — had relocated to South Woodford, where it remains.
But if a short hop on the Central Line feels too much of a trek, they’ve just launched a budget food delivery service. In today’s issue I roadtest four mains all costing less than a tenner each, as well as their tangy pickles (if you prefer, head straight to their website here). Better still, they’re offering free delivery to this part of East London (within five miles of South Woodford).
And if you do choose to visit, the restaurant itself now operates with limited opening hours, on the first and last weekends of the month. Follow @lakehouseuk
Elsewhere in today’s issue, I explore a handful of other places to enjoy Hungarian and Romanian cuisine in the area. One that’s worth mentioning first is Le Papy, the tiny Romanian restaurant on Leyton High Road near the Lion & Key Hotel: you can read more on the dish I enjoyed most in this recent review here.
I also eat at Leyton Midland’s new TrioBite restaurant, pictured above, which specialises in Hungarian and Romanian cooking. Situated in the former Bamboo Mat — a venue which has had its own struggles in the last year — new owners Róbert and Daniela are experienced chefs and hospitality operators who, prior to this, worked for many years at Sushi Samba. While the goulash, pictured above, is indeed recommended, the menu naturally yields other pleasures, too.
And finally, I take a stroll down to Stratford Broadway to try the long-running streetfood staple Tradition By Alex, with its roll call of classic Romanian dishes, marquee-covered alfresco tables and lively muzică populară soundtrack. For the full picture on all this, read on.
Welcome to issue #71. During Ramadan, Leyton’s smash hit Middle Eastern bakery Farha, in addition to its daytime hours, has launched Farha Lates on Friday and Saturday (8pm-11pm). The item to try is their take on honey butter toast, “finished generously with Royal Sidr honey sourced from Yemen,” says co-owner Nargis. “Considered one of the world’s most prized honeys, it’s intensely floral and velvety, with a caramel hit.” There’ll also be pistachio praline cookies, spiced Adeni chai, and two new Colombian coffees, all available decaf too.
One for the diaries: Saturday 2nd May sees the return of Shake The High Road, Leytonstone’s annual music and culture festival, one ticket gaining access to shows at St John’s Church, the Red Lion Ballroom, Leytonstone Social Club (FKA Ex-Servicemen’s Club) and more, with stages curated by BBC Introducing and Dreamhouse Records. Artists include Gold Panda, Pan Amsterdam, Gwenifer Raymond, with streetfood stalls and Forest Gate brewery Pretty Decent supplying the craft beer (and more). Get earlybird tickets here.
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In this week’s issue for paid subscribers:
Brand new smokehouse NOx (yep, spelt like that) is opening on Leytonstone High Road: I speak to co-owner Jenna about what’s on the menu, the couple’s intriguing story, which E11 coffee shop they have a connection with, and why their journey to opening their own restaurant has taken eight years. Plus: exclusive work-in-progress interior shots.
A beginner’s guide to TrioBite in Leyton Midland — what to order, what to drink and more.
Lakehouse’s new budget food delivery service: I roadtest four dishes from the former Leytonstone-based Hungarian restaurant.
Tradition By Alex: lunchtime dining at Stratford’s locally famous Romanian streetfood marquee.
This week’s food news, forthcoming pop-ups, one-offs and foodie happenings.