Inside Leyton's first absinthe bar, Devil's Botany - and marking a decade of local craft breweries
Plus: the lowdown on Leyton Midland's new bakery, 10 years since Signature Brew's Leyton taproom opened, Yume's set lunch reviewed and Wanstead Farmer's Market
With lip-smacking serendipity, the opening of the area’s most potent watering hole ever will surely blast away Dry January once and for all.
One thing’s for certain: there’s no alcohol-free absinthe at the Devil’s Botany. But fancy a heady 63% ABV hit of the Green Fairy (diluted, of course)? Well, from tomorrow afternoon, you’ll be in the right place. That place, quirkily enough, is next to Aldi on Lea Bridge Road. Better still, it’s opposite Screwfix (I’m sure there’s a joke in there somewhere).
Before we take a deep breath and enter, first, some boozy context. Did you know that 2025 marks a decade since the inception of the area’s modern-day craft beer movement?
Let’s rewind to 2015, when a newly launched Leytonstoner excitedly covered the opening of the brand new Signature Brew in the Leyton Business Centre on Etloe Road. Whatever happened to them, eh?
Signature comprised a trio of musicians-turned-brewers whose hoppy experiments soon blossomed into a thriving start-up. “It began as a crusade against the monotonous beer at all the gigs we had played,” said co-founder Dave back in August 2015. “And then we set about taking our home-brewing to a commercial level.”
The rest, of course, is Blackhorse Road-fuelled history. The brewery’s tiny original taproom, however, tucked away in this corner of E10, was buzzing by Christmas 2015, when I (a little giddily) declared it “London’s best kept secret” (see how minuscule it was here): “With a handful of mismatched tables and chairs ready to host about fifteen drinkers, by 6pm there was standing room only, a convivial atmosphere all the while prevailing.”
From thereon, the last ten years has seen - if not a stampede - a steady flow of some of the capital’s most respected independent breweries setting up in Leyton and Leytonstone. Signature Brew (which moved to its current E17 location in 2019) was followed by cult fave Neckstamper on Staffa Road in the Argall Avenue industrial estate area in 2016, its memorable name referencing the 17th century word for the pot boy of the local alehouse. A year later saw the UK’s first alcohol-free brewery arrive, Nirvana (whose story I covered last week), followed by Magic Spells (reported here) on Rigg Approach in 2017.
Other arrivals include game-changer Gravity Well, which opened in Tilbury Road in 2018 (where Libertalia now is) before moving to the Overground station, and in 2019 underrated Belgian beer specialists Solvay Society taproom in Leytonstone’s Grove Green road arches (alas, now sadly closed). 2022 saw Hackney Wick’s Mammoth Brewery reinvent former E11 wine bar To Be Consumed, with aforementioned Libertalia landing in Tilbury Road in 2023, and, in the same year, Clapton classic Blondie’s vast brewery taking over Patchworks. And finally this year, Queer Brewing, who have operated a taproom in the Argall Avenue estate since 2024, are just about to launch their own brewery. Phew.
One thing we haven’t had? Many distilleries. Sure, there’s been Mother’s Ruin on the Ravenswood Industrial estate, and more recently the Brandy House opened off Blackhorse Road, but this weekend is a genuine win for Leyton and Leytonstone: the opening of the UK's first dedicated absinthe distillery bar. Having swung by for a cocktail or three earlier this week, I can reveal that the Devil’s Botany tasting room is a corker. Read the full story below.
Welcome to this week’s issue. Well, last week’s headline was certainly divisive. But the good news is that, as well as stimulating some thoughtful debate, the accompanying reader poll revealed that 81% of subscribers think Leytonstone is doing just fine. Which, in these difficult times, it really is.
If you missed the discussion across different platforms, one reader suggested Leytonstone is “always tipped, but we never quite get there,” with another saying “it’s in constant flux”. Mitali wrote Instagram: “I don't think one area going up means others are in decline. When I visit Leyton Midland there is a concentration of places then a fairly average road, but with Leytonstone there are little gems everywhere. In my opinion both areas are on the 'up'.”
With several people pointing out that Theatre Of Wine is also sadly closing, and others reacting strongly to the word “decline”, Arch Deli and Swirl owner Michaela was admirably honest about how tough it is right now as an independent. If nothing else, last week’s main story underlined that all need to show support, as much as we can, to the small businesses we truly value. With that in mind, here’s what you can expect in today’s new issue:
First chat with the owner of the new bakery opening in Leyton Midland’s Tilbury Road railway arches - while it sounds awesome, Morny this ain’t, people. Find out why below
Inside absinthe bar Devil’s Botany - an interview with co-founder Rhys, a tour and my pick of the best cocktails to order
Leytonstone Japanese restaurant Yume's set lunch reviewed
The lowdown on the new E11 exhibition tracing the Philley Brook river
The essential bite at this weekend’s monthly Wanstead Farmer's Market
Soho Theatre comes to Walthamstow - new programme highlights
This weekend’s foodie pop-ups - and Valentine’s ones to book
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Devil’s Botany distillery: inside the new tasting room
First up, if you think Lea Bridge Road is a bit of a schlep, this brand new absinthe bar can, in fact, be reached on foot by a bucolic route. Stroll through Leyton’s historic St Mary’s Churchyard, cross over Church Road and head straight down Ive Farm Close to reach Dagenham Brook, then follow its wooded course to Jubilee Park. Exit north onto Lea Bridge Road and voila, you’re there.
A vivid green door with subtle signage leads into the dimly lit space. Both the new 20-cover bar, pictured above, and the distillery are the brainchild of married mixologist couple Rhys Everrett and Allison Crawbuck, who have form in these matters, having brought their Absinthe Parlour concept to the Last Tuesday Society on Hackney’s Mare Street in 2016. It’s Rhys who meets me for a tour and tasting.
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