'Clearly Leyton is vibrant...but is Leytonstone in decline?'
Plus: Mammoth's takeover, Red Camel's must-try Afghan classics, what's next for Luna, Yat Sing's £9.90 set meal reviewed, a spontaneous day out in Ilford, and Leyton brewery Nirvana's best beers
The other week, in an issue revealing yet more new openings in Leyton Midland, including incoming candlelit pub Chop Shop Tavern, reader Marc made this observation: “Clearly Leyton is vibrant at the moment but do you think Leytonstone is in decline? Luna and Mammoth have gone, a number of shops are boarded up, there are some mediocre recent openings like Eat My Pizza, and who knows when/if Singburi will reopen? What are your thoughts?”
This was an interesting take on the local hospitality scene, and one which, the more I thought about it, deserved to be unpacked. So, let’s start with Leyton: yes, there have been a flurry of arrivals - endorsed by Time Out’s infamous “cool” new London neighbourhood status - but, of course, this is not the whole picture: main drag Leyton High Road, with its ongoing issues, has barely changed in the last decade, a few quality openings notwithstanding.
Now, let’s be optimistic - it is the start of the year, after all - and glance up at Leytonstone where, on the surface, there are many positive new developments. There’s the much-needed refurbishment of landmark corner boozer The Red Lion, under new owners, quality new Uyghur arrival Uzbegim, excellent patisserie and brunch stop J’Adore, and classics like Filly Brook, the Heathcote, Leytonstone Tavern, Panda Dim Sum, the North Star and Homies on Donkeys all packing ’em in. And off-the-beaten-track pearls abound too, from wine bar Dina to Japanese diner Yume and the Afghan cuisine of Red Camel, which I review in today’s issue.
On a negative side, three much-loved venues did close last year: as well as Luna and Mammoth, more of which below, Sardinian institution Mora shut after nearly a decade (it’s now dessert shop Chocoberry, sign of the times). And whatever we think of independent chains like Eat My Pizza opening, it’s inarguable that they have the budget to transform buildings such as the former bank into elegant dining spaces. Otherwise who knows what they’d become? Oh, did someone say Gail’s?
And now to Mammoth, which closed quickly last month. Happily, I can confirm a very respected local brewery is negotiating its takeover, although they are keen to point out that “nothing has been finalised yet.” So you’ll have to wait a bit longer, but you won’t be disappointed: it’s a great fit - and their beer is as good, if not better, than Mammoth’s.
As for Luna, this is trickier. Exactly a year ago, owner Declan launched a fundraiser. The venue urgently needed £75,000 “to address debts, conduct essential maintenance and building work, modernize the venue, improve soundproofing, enhance energy efficiency, and become a thriving community hub during the day.” Sadly, they didn’t reach their target, a real pity as Luna’s significance as an inclusive, safe space extended far beyond music.
At this point in 2025 its future remains uncertain. One high-quality local indie business is indeed hoping to take over the space (again, you won’t be disappointed) but when I asked them for an update, they said that there was “no news yet, not from my side any way. I've had a look but it needs a lot of work done to it. I think that has to happen before anyone can even show an interest.” They did also add that “there are a number of people looking at it.”
When I walked past the venue yesterday, it looked like renovations were at least starting. So while this may feel like a mixed bag, I would nonetheless suggest that both Leytonstone and Leyton High Road are on a par with many other London high streets, whether that’s, say, Homerton or Deptford where, on a spontaneous visit last weekend, I clocked many derelict shopfronts. Not to mention Chalk Farm Road in NW1, its parade opposite the world-famous Roundhouse almost inexplicably boarded-up. Such tough reality is underlined by stark UK stats: a report this month suggested 37 shops a day closed in 2024, while 10% of UK restaurants (around 6000) are expected to close this year.
A final thought about Singburi, which I’m pretty sure will be open again by the end of March, as per last year. I’ve long been bemused as to why another enterprising young business hasn’t opened nearby to take advantage of the steady footfall (neighbouring Caribbean restaurant Grill ‘n’ Chill aside). On every visit to its packed dining room, I’ve watched a stream of hopeful diners being turned away, either unaware of its fully-booked status or simply local and chancing it. Surely this is a golden opportunity for someone with the right offer?
Over to you:
Welcome to this week’s issue - and just a quick note to say thanks for all the continued love and new subscribers joining the party last week. It means a lot. Here’s what you can expect in today’s issue:
What to order at Leytonstone’s under-the-radar destination food joint Red Camel. It’s so good I went back twice this week
Chinese takeaway Yat Sing’s £9.90 set meal for one - roadtested
How to have a spontaneous day out in Ilford, from leafy Valentine’s Park to contemporary art gallery Space and streetfood hall Mercato Metropolitano
The story of the UK’s only female-owned AF brewery Nirvana, based in Leyton - and my top AF lager ever
The weekly rundown of this week’s pop-ups, new openings and one-offs
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Red Camel: Leytonstone’s unheralded oasis
Singburi aside, I’d argue that Afghan restaurant Red Camel is the other foodie destination on the stretch of Leytonstone High Road near the Overground.
Of course, the key difference between the two is that this tiny, low-key dining room is totally un-hyped, if perhaps slightly “in-the-know” amongst certain circles. And yet I still hadn’t visited - until last weekend.
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