Brunch Special.
15 places to ponder, including reviews of No.23, Uzbegim, Branché and Joice. Plus: Good Bagel interview, and Crumbs Bakery finally opens on Tilbury
While I’ve never been its biggest fan — and it’s certainly no weekend prerequisite — brunch has increasingly crept into my mindset in the last decade. As it probably has yours. So just before the November launch of Leyton’s hotly anticipated new brunch spot Farha, I’ve spent the last few weeks eating my way around E10 and E11’s morning menus.
Today’s issue is therefore a survey of both some established favourites and newer arrivals. Most impressive? The sheer diversity on offer, from French to Uyghur, Turkish to Indian options — not forgetting the many mutations of the Full English, of course.
But first, let’s rewind briefly to 1895, when British writer Guy Beringer coined the word in his essay ‘Brunch: A Plea’. It was, he proposed, the perfect tonic for “Saturday night carousers” being served around midday. The article in Hunter’s Weekly magazine was soon republished in Punch and the concept spread to the US, where it was — as we all know — adopted enthusiastically.
Its louche reputation has endured over the last century — I’ve certainly done my share of Saturday night carousing — but it’s only been in the last couple of decades that it’s become the globe-trotting experience we now enjoy.
Before then, the emphasis was mostly on the old-school fry-up — with a poached egg here, some smoked salmon there. But following the game-changing Ottolenghi in the noughties, in 2010 Caravan — at both its Exmouth Market and vast Granary Square locations — introduced many Londoners to its Middle Eastern and Antipodean influences, while equally pioneering were neighbourhood cafes like Sunday, located on a residential street in Barnsbury, Towpath in De Beauvoir and, over in the Wick, the Hackney Pearl (RIP).
Fast forward to 2025 and despite its popularity, in the current economic climate there’s talk of a “brunch recession”: for restaurateurs, the margins can be high as people don’t, say, drink as much as they might at other times of day, while bills are generally far lower than those for, say a traditional lunch or dinner out.
Ten local brunch joints: a round-up
A strong place to start our brunch journey (which, for practical reasons, I’ve had to confine this time to E10 and E11), is surely Leytonstone’s bucolic Back To Ours. With its tranquil garden and creative chalked-up daily specials — such as slow-baked carlin peas with herby tomatoes and a fried egg — it’s subtly innovative. Need a full-on bread fix? There’s elevated focaccia gluttony at Earl’s, its sister sarnie offshoot on Cann Hall Road.
Another solid option, especially after a circuit or two of Hollow Pond, is the chic Out Of The Woods in Upper Leytonstone, a deli and cafe with a signature “Belly Full” breakfast, plus a plant-based fry, and skillets of shakshuka. A standout? Chorizo hash (£13.50), which combines sliced fried potatoes with discs of grilled chorizo, caramelized onions, plenty of spinach and two poached eggs.
Unity is the popular sunny cafe at the top of Richmond Road, a stylish addition to a formerly derelict corner from the team behind Leytonstone pizza hangout Bocca Bocca. I’m a fan of their ‘signature’ breakfast roll (£10.25), the exploding orange yolk coating crispy bacon, smashed avo and cheddar, with — interestingly — vegan nduja injecting its spicy warmth.
As discussed in my recent review, San Marino opened opposite St John’s Church in Leytonstone back in 1995 and now boasts around 30 brunch options. My tip is the Turkish Village (£16.90), a colourful (if a tad pricey) plate of soft eggs, griddled halloumi, salad, olives, mashed avocado, sliced garlic sausage and feta. You’ll also get jam, a honey pastry, and even a small pot of honey and goat’s cheese.
Down in Leyton, I’m a huge fan — as outlined last week — of Deeney’s inventive brunches, whether that’s creamy spicy kedgeree-style smoked haddock or a recent highlight, the potato hash (£9, above) with fried egg, kale, peas, almond dukkah and tahini dressing. This would, in fact, rank amongst my top local tips.
Where else? Hit Bare Brew in Wanstead for warm bacon naans (£12) with fried egg, zingy tomato chilli jam, cream cheese and fresh coriander — an enduring E11 classic — or Leyton High Road’s cute weatherboarded Mola Break for Turkish flatbreads, wraps and menemen. And it’s easy to overlook Figo, a genuine go-to when it opened in 2021, with its Italian and Mediterranean accented menu (the toasted smoked salmon bagel with cream cheese and Greek yogurt was a fleeting fave).
And finally, in Leyton Midland, Indian streetfood kitchen Karak Chaai (original review here) offers easygoing twists on your mid-morning meal: I enjoy its Desi Breakfast, pictured above, just £7.75, which comprises a small pot of comforting mild-spiced dahl, a springy masala omelette and — best of all — two buttery, flaky warm paratha. You can also order a coffee or strong spicy karak chaii to wash it down (included in the price).
With Farha not yet open — their brunch will, co-owner Nargis explained, take inspiration from the Middle East — in today’s issue below I also visit a handful of other newish options.
Read on for longer reviews of Leyton High Road’s Branché cafe, its Insta-friendly brunches “influenced by the south of France”; the new breakfast menu at Church Lane’s Uzbegim, which specialises in Ughyur and Central East Asian cuisine; cute Leytonstone cafe No.23, with a broader brunch menu than you might expect; and Joice in Wanstead, a subscriber-recommended brunch destination. I also grab five minutes with Stokey legends the Good Bagel, who operate out of Leyton Midland institution Perky Blenders.
Today’s feature is in no way comprehensive: it’s purely a start to the conversation. So if I’ve missed off your favourite brunch spot, share it in the comments.
Weekend Must: Community Feast, Tilbury Road
This inaugural annual event tomorrow, facilitated by the Mayor’s Summer Streets Fund, should be a nostalgic way to celebrate the changing seasons. Organised by Leyton Midland Collective, the idea is to gather “the neighbourhood on one big banquet table” — with a seat for (hopefully) everyone. Three different chefs will be serving up a “Pay What You Can” meal between 2-4pm, with limited spaces, so book a spot or come down early.
The chefs include Punam, founder of Khao Suppers, whose menus “weave together stories and flavours from her childhood as a British Indian with roots in Gujarat, Mumbai, and East Africa”; Win’s Bakery for pies, pasties, and sausage roll; and Ochi Restaurant for jerk chicken, goat dishes and veggie plates. Tilbury Road Yard, Saturday October 25th, 11am until late.
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Behind this week’s paywall:
Reviews of four very different brunch cafes and restaurants including Uzbegim and No.23 in Leytonstone, Branché on Leyton High Road and Wanstead’s Joice
Interview with Good Bagel at Perky Blenders at Leyton Midland.
What to expect from Crumbs Bakery when it opens tomorrow on Tilbury
A round-up of week’s pop-ups, one-offs, foodie happenings and gossip